Chronicles of a Coffee Aficionado Series

How would you describe the coffee industry today?

JOHAN: Today’s coffee industry is massive. Now more than ever, we have so many options to choose from. From a roaster’s point of view, there are both so many variations of beans to use and new methods for crafting coffee. It has evolved to a level that is unprecedented. For example, you can buy directly from a coffee farm or subscribe to roasters that deliver beans to your home. You can have capsule cold brew makers or fully-automatic espresso machines. So the industry is extremely diversified.

However, access to high-quality equipment and coffee is not equal worldwide. You will find extremely high-quality equipment in homes in North America, Europe, and parts of Asia. But the same cannot be said for certain regions of Europe, Africa, or Latin America.

What is your preferred method of preparing coffee at home?

JOHAN: I always start my day with a double espresso. But in my opinion, a double shot is never served on its own. I have my espresso with a slice of toast with some beautiful butter and jam. I then head to the factory where I’ll have my second espresso of the day.

What are your favorite taste notes?

JOHAN: My approach to coffee, especially to espresso, is very specific. I look for the ‘roundness' of the product’s flavor and its overall aroma. For me, a beautiful coffee has a balance between acidity and bitterness, with notes of toasted almond and light touches of chocolate. After 5 minutes, I should notice the coffee’s wonderful aftertaste. That to me is the perfect espresso.

I call this the Mediterranean approach: roundness in flavor with a complex and long-lasting finish. My go-to is usually a medium-dark roast.

How has globalization altered the flavors inside our coffee mug?

JOHAN: Globalization has helped us find new flavors and create unique ways of drinking coffee. It is helping our industry discover specific brewing recipes from across the world. Because of globalization, not only do we get to learn about coffee’s origins, but also the ways people consume coffee. In that sense, it has helped us tremendously as an industry.

Having direct contact with coffee drinkers (end user), how does these interactions help you shape or adapt your business?

JOHAN: At Coperaco, we have been very consistent with our standard house blend, meanwhile creating a lot of single-origin batches or unique blends as well. But offering a consistent product to the consumer has always been very important to me.

In our other businesses, like Stone Street, we have a very large presence in e-commerce. By doing so, we are able to understand the frequency of orders, but also the type of coffee a consumer likes. Because we have access to this information, we have an idea of what our next move should be in regards to taste.

We originally thought that Amazon would remain the largest stakeholder in the e-commerce department, simply because you could have coffee delivered to your door the next day. But one competitive advantage we discovered about ordering directly from a roaster’s site is freshness. You get coffee straight from the roaster, and coffee drinkers who are becoming more educated on coffee roasting understand the importance of freshness.

When I was working as a barista during my studies, I wanted to learn more about coffee. Now our operation in Brooklyn is no longer a mom-and-pop shop. We operate the largest coffee company in New York City, and Coperaco’s culinary approach to roasting has helped us establish long-lasting relationships with Michelin-star chefs and brands like De’Longhi.